HO Model Trains - Metal Wheels

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For years all model HO cars came with plastic wheels and many still do. There cheap to manufacture and roll fine on a layout. Then why change?

There are a few reasons for the change over. The obvious reason is they are prototypical of the real thing. They make a clear metal to metal sound along with the clickety clack as they passover the track divisions.

The real reason from a hobbyist point of view is the problem of dirty tracks. The plastic peals off as it rolls around the track and leaves a black residual stain on the track. You end up constantly cleaning the track. This becomes intolerable over time.

The one drawback is some of the first metal wheels axles were not made of a nonconductive material. This became a real problem when you tried to put metal wheel sets into a metal sprung truck. Instant short! Now the metal wheels come with either a carbon composite or epoxy graphite resin axel.

The metal wheel has also improved the problems with switch points and crossovers. The plastic would easily get chipped or scared which would cause problems at switches. The metal wheel has eliminated that kind of problem to some extent. A good switch needs to be one that closes the switch point everytime.

One issue that is still a irritating problem is the pony and trailing truck wheels on brass steam engines. They come with steel axles which can cause annoying shorts. If one of the wheels touches the cylinders or cab frame it will cause a short. If the axles were made of a noncunductive material problem solved. Using a set of freight car wheels is a shot in the dark. The trailing truck wheels come in varying sizes as sometimes does the pony trucks. Unless you are really good with a mini-lathe and can create your own composite axles you have an annoying dilemma. The only alternative is to try and adjust the pony trucks so they sit farther away from the cylinders or in both cases you paint a clear epoxy onto the cylinders and cab where the short occurs. There really isn't anything you can do with the trailing trucks except to apply some form of nonconductive material to the cab that is all but invisible to the naked eye.

There are some trucks for freight cars that you cannot replace the plastic wheels. You have to replace the whole truck. These are the trucks that have the axle come through the truck frame. You can actually see the axle turn as the wheels roll down the track. I find this unfortunate because I have several sets of these type of trucks.

You may find the replacement process a bit expensive if you have a great number of cars. Your best bet is to surf the WEB for discounted wheels. I primarily use Proto 2000 wheels because I can get them cheaper than Kadee and A-line. I am not sure of Intermountain since I have never used them except for what comes on their freight cars. Under the circumstances your best bet is to surf the WEB and ask your friends what and where the best deals are.

HO Model Trains - DC vs DCC

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For years the power source to run electric trains has been the transformer or rectifier. Lionel, American Flyer, Marx and others all used the transformer which were big and bulky AC to DC power source. On the other hand HO, HOn3, and "n" Gauge use a rectifier to power their locomotives. This is called a DC system. The new system for model trains is the DCC system with its own power supply. The issue is what is better and a more efficient means to operate a layout and controlling locomotives.

The DC system has some major drawbacks that inhibit the use of multiple trains running simultaneously versus the DCC system. The big problem is the cost change over between DC and DCC. Each locomotive must have a CPU installed called a decoder. You are required to have a separate power supply and need hand held controllers to be able to operate and program each engine. This is a new dimension in the operation of a model railroad.

The DC system can run only one train at a time on the track unless the layout is big enough to have blocks. The block represents a section of trackage that is separately controlled by an operator. If a train approaches a block it will stop unless the operator passes it through. This means if there are several blocks on the layout you must have a individual located at each block point. Normally the block operator will have a head set so he or she can communicate with the other operators on the layout. If a train approaches a block and another train is in the next block the operator must stop the approaching train until the other train has cleared the block. This is not much different than the real railroad signal system where the engineer must stop if a red light is displayed on the signal. However, there is a significant difference between the DC operation and the DCC operation.

With DCC as previously stated each locomotive is controlled individually by the hand held controller. Also, there is a circuit board available for DCC that breaks the railroad up into four separate blocks. You may have as many of these circuit boards as necessary for your railroad. You may wire the system up so that you have signal blocks on the railroad that work in unison with the trains so they turn red automatically when a train is approaching and may interfere with another train. The decoder on board the engine allows for programming to a very high extent depending upon the decoders function level. Decoders range from 2 to 6 functions.

Without the block controller circuit board you still can operate multiple trains on one track with ease with DCC. You just have to make sure you know where each train is in conjunction with the others. Also, you must make sure you do not allow a train from another track to enter the mainline the wrong way. Corn field meets are bad news.

With the autoblock signal system you can just about simulate exactly what the real railroads do everyday. This allows the other operators on the railroad to do real railroading. This means an operator may bring in a train on a siding or yard to dispatch cars and pickup others and not have to worry about approaching trains and the possibility of a wreck. The sophistication of the DCC is so unique and is constantly evolving that it makes the operation of your railroad a real pleasure. The idea is not to watch a bunch of trains going around in circles but operate the trains in the manner that is done in the real world.

Another aspect of DCC operation is the new sound systems available to the modeler. This is not to say that the DC system cannot handle the sound systems. They can. The unique part of the DCC system is many of the sound systems come with the decoder already built in and thus you may program everything at once. When I say everything at once is not to say it doesn't take some time. It does and sometimes quite a bit of time especially if you are new at it.

For steam locomotives the new Tsunami by Soundtraxx is the best available at this time. It really simulates the sounds of a steam locomotive. One important advantage is the bell and whistle. If you are going to operate your system correctly the use of the whistle and bell can be significant in your operation. There are a series of whistle calls that can be incorporated into your operation. Fortunately a friend of mine has worked on the Milwaukee and BN for several years and knows how a real operation works and how to simulate it into your railroad.

I have operated both the DC and DCC system of operation and find the DCC the best of the best. There are several manufacturers of DCC equipment. I prefer Digatrax over the rest as far as the operating equipment is concerned. When it comes to decoders there are three manufacturers that I prefer. They are Digatrax, NCE and TCS. They produce very fine decoders that have been very successful in my fleet of engines.

One thing to remember is to research all of the manufacturers of DCC equipment before making a decision to buy. Talk to your friends and visit your local hobby shop for advice. The later can be a bit prejudice since he or she may be a dealer for a particular brand. Go online and visit the various manufacturing sites and price out what it is going to cost you and who seems to provide the best for your money. The operating system investment is all but final once you commit yourself so be careful.

The best way to approach DCC is to find someone or a club that operates with DCC. Buy a decoder for your engine and install it. Check it out at the club or friends layout and learn how it operates and what you can do with it. I suggest that you start with a diesel locomotive since most of them have drop in capabilities for the various decoders. The brass locomotives do not have this feature and take some time to install the decoder know has hard wiring. Many of the new plastic steam engines from China have the drop in capability. You may desire to just go buy a plastic steam engine or diesel that has the decoder already installed. That can be a bit pricey but you may be able to find one on eBay for a reasonable price.

Because of the constant evolution of the electronics provided for model railroading you need to keep abreast of what is available and asses how it might affect your railroad system.

HO Model Trains - Steam Engines

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My passion deals with steam engines and how they have affected the United States and Canada let alone the World.

A steam engine is nostalgic and draws attention and crowds where ever they are in the United States and Canada. I've seen many films of Australia where steam is fancied.

The steam engine was the backbone of the United States development and expansion for over one hundred years. During World War II the steam engine pulled more tonnage and played the greatest roll in moving products, military gear and troops across this country. In fact over 1000 steam engines were sent to Great Britain and Europe during World War II and during the Marshall Plan. Fortunately the gauge was the same where ever we sent steam locomotives. The four feet eight and a half inch gauge comes from Great Britain.

The steam engine as a modelers choice is more than just average in the model railroading hobby. It represents a bygone era and history that cannot be ignored by anyone who is fascinated with transportation and the history of railroading in general. The Diesel is generally quiet and unpretentious to the viewer of the railroads of today. The opposite is true of the steam engine. The steam engine is lowed, mighty in looks, huge to look at and excited the children and adults of years gone by. When looking at the past history of this era and the perceived character of a steam locomotive it is no wonder that crowds appear when one of the few steam giants appears on the scene.

There are several large steam locomotives in operation throughout the United States and Canada. As I mentioned in a previous blog the numbers are small and dwindling. We have the largest locomotive in operation in the World know as the Challenger. This locomotive has a wheel alignment of 4-6-6-4 and is know as an articulated locomotive. The engine actually is two engines in one with separate boilers. The sixes represent the drive wheels of each engine. Originally the engines top speed was around 100 mile per hour. That is restricted in today's rail system by the government. The Challenger series was built for the Union Pacific Railroad who is the owner of Challenger #3985. This engine and her sister engine Northern 4-8-4 #844 travel about the Union Pacific system for rail fans and other special occasions. The #844 is the only steam engine in the United States that has never been retired. It has remained in operation since it was built.

To name a few other Northern 4-8-4 series we fined the Southern Pacific #4449 Daylight in operation as an excursion engine. The former SP&S Northern 4-8-4, Santa Fe Northern 4-8-4, Milwaukee Northern 4-8-4 are all back in operation as excursion engines. In Canada a Canadian Pacific Royal Hudson 4-6-4 is in operation. There have been one other Articulated locomotive 2-8-8-2 and a Northern 4-8-4 owned by the Norfolk and Western now the Norfolk and Southern that were running but have been put back into the museum. There are smaller engines running on mainline rails as well. You can find several private railroads that still run small steam engine excursions.

For the hobbyist these locomotives have all been reproduced in miniature. In this case we are looking at HO scale steam engines. They have all been reproduced in brass and may know have been produced in plastic.

In my case I have the U.P. Challenger and S.P. Daylight in brass. They provide great enjoyment and historical presence for me.

One of the great assets we have are the numerous books that have been published on American and Canadian railroads. This is also true of the World railroads. Books are a tremendous media for historical information and pictures. This has important significance when it comes to the railroads. So many railroads are fallen flags. This terminology is the means by which a railroad that is no longer in operation is designated. The books provide us with the information that otherwise would generally not be available. There is a second media that is all important and that is the 16 millimeter films taken by several photographers over the years of steam and of the fallen flags.

Because of these forms of media the hobbyist can choose the railroad and era he or she wishes to model. I like all the different periods of railroading to present. However, my favorite period is the 30's through the 50's. Many of my friends and colleagues enjoy this part of our history yet will dabble in the present railroad system. A good example of this are the Canadian Grain cars. They are modern and very unique in there shape and reliability. As there are many new things as well as old there is always a fascination for what ever it is. No one person is the same in his or her likes or dislikes which makes life interesting. This is so true in model railroading.

As a modeler myself and friends enjoy seeing slide shows and movies of the railroad system of the United States and Canada. It gives us ideas on improving our own layout if we have one. It also presents us with historical moments that would other wise not be seen or known. Between the real thing and the hobby it plays together in learning, understanding and realizing the incredible progress that has been made in this one form of transportation and the effect it has had on are two nations.

HO Model Trains - Scenery

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In today's world of model railroading scenery is a must as it has always been. The difference is the materials available to create scenery.

We will start with the materials to create hills and mountains. There are so many types of materials it would seem impossible to cover them all but, we are going to try. First of all we need to cover the tools you may need to start your project. Plastic buckets generally not more than a gallon along with one gallon plastic milk bottles to hold water. Putty knives big to very small, wood paint mixing tool, hot glue gun, water based glues such as Elmers, spray on glues, women's hair spray - heavy duty, rubbing alcohol, a roller paint pan, sculpting knife, rubber molds for rock formations, paint brushes from big to small, pair of tweezers, Scalpel or Exacto knife, pair of scissors, etc.

When it comes to rock molds you can make your own or buy various rock mold sizes. There is a silica molding material you can purchase that is poured onto a rock cluster either indoors or out doors. You let the material dry and when hard it peals off with ease. From their you may use Hydrocal or other plaster like materials to create you rocks. Be sure you read the label on the material you intend to use. Some materials dry so fast that you don't have time to poor the material evenly into the mold.

Materials have a vast range. You may use newspaper, plastic screen used for screen doors, matted cloth used in the garden to stop weeds, card board strips, plaster cloth, Sculptamold, Hydrocal, Plaster of Paris, brown paper bags, water, Styrofoam, paper towels, Vermiculite, house paint, to name a few items for your creative side.

In my case I have chosen three specific products that have been a great addition in creating what I want. They are card board strips, plaster cloth and Sculptamold. The later two are commercial products that you may purchase at your hobby store or on-line. If you need large quantities the best way to acquire them is on-line.

Instead of cutting up cardboard boxes and the like, I found a supply of precut strips in large quantities from Micro-Mark. The plaster cloth can be purchased from Micro-Mark and Woodland Scenics. This product is not manufactured from either company. My suggestion is that you surf the WEB for the products you want and perhaps a better deal can be made. Sculptamold can be found on the WEB by the manufacturer. It comes in various size bags with the biggest being 50lbs.

The reason I choose these three products was the ease in making a mountain for example. With a hot glue gun you take the cardboard strips of about 1 1/4" and glue them to the base on the layout and to an upper structure like the side of a railroad bed. To create a mountain scene you would use what ever length of the strips necessary to create an out line of a mountain whether against a wall or in the middle of the layout. For support you crisscross the cardboard and glue the surfaces together with the hot glue gun. Once you have completed the frame work you start to lay the plaster cloth on the frame work.

This is done by first getting a paint roller pan that has an angle to it. Then fill a plastic one gallon milk container with water. At the bottom end of the paint roller pan poor about 1 1/2"s of water. The plaster cloth comes in rolls of about eight inches wide. You begin by cutting off a length of the plaster cloth then grabbing one end with both hands dip the piece of cloth all the way through the water. You lay the cloth onto the cardboard strips starting at the bottom and work up. The idea is to completely cover the whole cardboard structure. Once this is accomplished let it all dry for 24 hours.

After competing the plaster cloth project begin preparing the Sculptamold. Start by getting one of the plastic buckets preferably a half gallon one. Depending on how large the hill, mountain or wall will determine how much Sculptamold needs to be placed in the bucket. For example, if I were to cover a medium sized mountain I would fill the bucket with about a third of the Sculptamold. At this point you will need the wooden paint mixer and a gallon of water. Poor about a half a pint of water into the bucket and try a stir the the mixture. If it remains dry add some more water until you get a wet paste. Make sure it is not runny.

Once this is accomplished take either a one inch or two inch putty knife and begin laying the Sculptamold onto the harden plaster cloth. The Sculptamold is not intended to be smooth. It is very fibrous and has a consistence of papermache.

As you continue to cover the mountain with Sculptamold you will begin to see various contours and shapes being to be developed as you work. Natural cliffs, ravines and cracks will appear as you continue to add the Sculptamold. Part of this phenomena is caused by the way you built up the cardboard strips and plaster cloth. You certainly do not want your mountain to look like a bald head. Try and make partial stream beds, cliffs, shear walls, waterfalls, and other formations common to the mountains you see in pictures and real life with the cardboard strips and plaster cloth. By doing this the Sculptamold will fill in those areas and when dry will look just as you planned but generally better.

The Sculptamold takes a while to dry. If you did not make enough Sculptamold to complete the project that's not a problem. Just place in the bucket what you think it will take to complete your mountain. It is better to underestimate how much you need than the opposite. Once dry you may carve areas of your work as you see fit with a sculpting knife or awls. Once this is done you may begin to paint the mountain with various shades of color. The colors will depend on the area of the country or world you are trying to reproduce.

I generally use house paint to accomplish my color schemes. If there is a Home Depot or Lowe's in your area or even a paint store you will generally find a table that has paint in quart to gallon size that sells for $3.00 to $5.00. This is paint ordered and never picked up or other reasons why the stores whish to get rid of it. There is usually a variety of colors that you may choose from that you can use and can partially mix as you are painting your mountain or what ever. If you need finite details then I would suggest you visit you local hobby shop or go online to find the specific paint(s) you want. If at all possible always use water based paints.

While the paint is still wet on your mountain you can begin placing synthetic grasses and small rocks on your mountain. Even small shrubs can be added if the paint is very wet. To acquire
these type of products you either go to your hobby shop or go online. There are several producers of these products. For all grasses and roadbed materials including ballast I use Woodland Scenics products. These materials come in quart size plastic containers. The cheapest way to acquire these products is on the internet. As far as shrubs are concerned there are several producers of these materials.

When it comes to trees the best method is to make your own. The very small trees are relative cheap in kit form. The rest are expensive. Trees can run from $10.00 to $25.00 apiece. That is to rich for me. The best method to make your own trees is the use of furnace filter material and skewer sticks. You may also use small wood branches for the bottom part of the trunk of the tree to give the tree more realism. If you are going to use the wood trunks then you need to take 1/32 stiff wire and bend over so the two lengths are the same and the height is what you want for that tree. You take the loop at the top of the wire and place it into a vice. With the other ends you place the two ends in a drill and spin the wire into a braid. Just be careful you don't snap the wire. Always use a variable speed drill. Drill a small hole into the wood trunk and insert the open two wires in the hole. Use your hot glue gun to hold the wires in place.

You now take the furnace filter material and pull a chunk out. You pull severe small pieces apart from the material you are working with. You spread it out like a circular set of branches. You make several of these and begin to slide them down the braided wire until you reach the top of the wire. With a pair of scissors you trim the filter material into a semi cone shape or the shape that looks like an evergreen tree of what ever variety you want. Place the trees in a two foot by two foot Styrofoam sheet. Once you have the trees evenly spaced and have filled the Styrofoam take a spray can of a type of green paint you whish to color the trees with. There are several varieties of greens in spray cans that you can use to produce the exact color combination for each tree that you desire.

With the skewer sticks you do the same thing as you did when you placed the filter material on the braided wire. The painting process is also the same.

For Deciduous trees the method is quite different. There are some plants in your backyard or in the country side that look like deciduous trees after the dry. Many times the original foliage has fallen off leaving a bear looking tree which is what you want. There is two methods you can use to cover the tree with green foliage. One is to buy clump foliage from say Woodland Scenics or another producer or use the the coarse grasses from one of the quart bottles. Either way you will need to spray the branches of the tree with a spray glue such as Elmer's and either glue the clump foliage to the tree or sprinkle the coarse grasses over the tree. Don't spray the whole tree at once. Do it systematically from one area to another until you are finished. The glue stays sticky but looses its grip after a short time. The other method for deciduous trees is to purchase Woodland Scenics kits of tree trunks of various sizes and use clump foliage. Depending on the size of the tree will determine if the coarse grasses will work to cover the tree.

The blending of grasses, shrubs, evergreen trees and deciduous trees makes for a very interesting landscape. In many cases you may have only one type of tree variety in mass. In other cases you may have an open meadow with all types of grass and cut off tree stumps or old snags with a bird of prey perched on one of the snags. There is no limit to what you may produce and create from your mind. In another blog I will discuss the process of making water and the use of various size rocks and stones.

HO Model Trains - Layout

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One of the difficulties in Model Railroading is the building of a layout. It is time consuming and it takes space. The latter is the difficult obstacle to over come.

Depending on what your are aiming for determines the space requirements to develop a interesting an fun layout. Many layouts are set in an 8 x 4 area. You say "what can I do with that"? A lot of interesting things can be produced on an 8 x 4 area or sheet of plywood. The best alternative from the sheet of plywood is to build an elevated set of platforms with one flat area for a small yard. By using a support frame construction you can have a layout that can go twice around the 8 x 4 area. You may build various levels of track bed at a reasonable gradient. You want to measure the linear rate of ascent or percentage of the grade you intend to build. Assuming that you are going to have only small steam engines with the maximum being a 2-8-2 Mikado steam engine you do not want to exceed 2% at the very most. 1 1/2 % grade is more reasonable since your space constraints dictate your gradient and the ability to clear lower trackage as you climb, passover and descend. You need to get or make a scale that provides you with the information as how much 1/2% is per linear foot and so on per 1/2% increments till you have a maximum of 3%. You are trying to determine the rise and length of track necessary to clear trackage below over an overpass or the like. The curvature is still the same in crease but you are climbing in an arch. You are going to have to determine the height necessary to clear any obstacles, how much length of trackage is required to meet that goal based on the rate of decent or grade percentage. You want to be conservative on the low side keeping the grade at 1 1/2% or less based on the space you have. There is another problem that you must face and that is what percent can your engines climb with a load. This area of your railroad is critical in its design. How much length of track will it take to climb the mountain and then descend the mountain and still have room for other trackage on the layout including a yard and perhaps a roundhouse.

There are several books available from various sources that will give you ideas on how to design a support frame structure including what percent grade is applicable to an 8 x 4 space. You may be interested in HOn3 scale which allows for a great deal of building ideas. You can use 15" to 18" radiuses and have up to 6% grades. In some cases you may go as low as 12" radiuses depending on the type of locomotive you choose.

The choice is yours as which scale you decide to operate with. The problem with HOn3 is that the engines that have been built over the years do not run very well. If the engines have been reworked with can motors and new gearboxes then they should run very well. I have had several HOn3 locomotives from various importers. The best were the Westside engines in particular the C-16, K-27, K-28, and K-36. The other types had serious mechanical problems.

If you want to stay with the standard HO that is not a problem. Go to your local hobby store and find specific softback books on the construction of small railroads. You can always run a point-to-point railroad along a wall with a wye at one end and a turntables at the other to turn you engines. The point is to determine what area is available and what is the best means to utilize the space. I strongly recommend that you purchase soft covered books from your hobby store on railroad construction and the use of space. Belonging to a model railroad club would be a great deal of help as would having a friend who is a seasoned model railroader. You need to ask questions particularly the hobby shop personnel. They will know who is in the hobby and would be willing to help you. You may have the opportunity to work on a layout and learn some of the ticks of the trade so to speak. Another alternative is to check at your work and see if the company sponsors a model railroad club.

Once you begin to build your model railroad it becomes infectious and you don't want to leave it alone. You may change it several times and fine better ways to create the railroad that you dream about. Perhaps more space becomes available which allows you to increase your empire. A friend may come by to help you from time to time as you become more aware of those who have like interests. The sky is the limit in this hobby. I have been dabbling in this hobby for 59 years and am still not board. There are so many new innovations today because of the great advances that have been made in the electronics industry, art materials, glues, scenic materials made from new fiber materials, plastics, materials for making hills, mountains and valleys. It is almost endless as the imagination of man moves forward with greater ideas. As in many new things the spinoffs cover a vast area of interests and needs with model railroading being no exception.

HO Model Trains

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One of the great fascinations in the world of trains are steam engines. The best in my opinion are the articulated steam locomotives. Fortunately we have at least one running in the United States. There were two but the Norfolk & Southern shut it down and scent it back to the museum. The other is the Union Pacific Challenger 4-6-6-4 #3985. There are several single frame steam locomotives in operation today. Most are on private trackage however, there are several significant 4-8-4 Northerns still in operation that are run on the main lines of several railroads.

With this in mind we shall look at the HO Model Trains versions of some of these fine crafted brass and plastic articulated steam engines. This will include the different problems you might face in operating these locomotives.

In my collection I high have several HO articulated locomotives from four lines plus some from other lines that were sold to the Union Pacific railroad. Included in may collection of articulated locomotives is the famous Big Boy of the Union Pacific which is considered the grandaddy of them all. We shall show you the different types of articulated locomotives and their attributes and problem areas from my collection.

The following pictures gives you an idea of the various articulated locomotives available in HO. We will be looking at both brass and plastic articulated steam locomotives. Some of these pictures are not brass steam locomotives but are plastic steam engines made in China. The new Chinese plastic steam engines are remarkably accurate and run like a top. This not to say that the brass steam engines are inferior to the plastic engines. They are not. A well cared for brass engine is a form of art and when properly tuned runs as good as any plastic engine. Detail wise I am more impressed with the brass than plastic. Paint schemes are superior in color and contrast than most plastic engines.

The manufacturers of these brass engines are all located in Asia. We will be looking at Ajin of Korea, Samhongsa of Korea, Gom of Japan, Tenshodo of Japan articulated locomotives and their specific characteristics. All of these locomotives were contracted by different importers located in the United States. Many importers are no longer in business as well as some of the manufacturers in Asia. The quality of the production of these locomotives is the key to this discussion. Many engines built post World War II to present are finely crafted pieces of art. The problem is that they won't run for many reasons.

Just because the the older brass locomotive doesn't run does not mean they can't. Broken parts can be restored to new condition. With modern techniques the brass engine can be made better from a running point of view than when they were made. There are several new mechanical-electrical items that will change the brass locomotive into a finer running machine than was originally intended. This includes better lighting by the use of Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) which is a superior way of providing engine lighting. Better gearboxes, can motors and U-Joints/Couplings to make the locomotive run better and quieter.

The open frame motors originally used for brass engines is a big headache. They are very difficult to keep running and if they sit for any length of time they rarely will operate. Since all of the electrical parts of the motor are exposed to the atmosphere causes electrical problems. Dust particles are charged and attach themselves to the brushes and armature. This causes heavy ware on both the brushes and armature. It also causes a large resistance which disables the open frame motor from operating. This increases the power need to turn the motor. There are oil pads at either end of the motor that are used to oil the motor bearings on the drive shaft. Over time these pads harden and with draw from the bearing area thus the bearings are not lubricated and the bearings can seize. If this happens the motor is useless.

On the other hand the can motor has eliminated all these problems. It runs smoother, takes less current to operate, is smaller making it easier to install into a locomotive, comes with varying torques values and RPM ratings which allows you to choose what can motor is best for your engine and is best suited for the new DCC operation.

There are better techniques to provide solid electrical interfacing between the locomotive and the tender. This has been a major problem with brass steam engines. The tender drawbar to the engine pin has been a constant hassle as far as passing electricity. The circuit is constantly being broken do to this poor method. Today we solve the problem with new pin to receptacle wire cables that are installed in the tender and locomotive respectively. The drawbar to pin remains but the current passes through the wire harness.

For HO Model Trains these new hardware and electrical upgrades has changed the hobby dramatically. You now can truly tune up your brass steam engine and expect it to work almost flawlessly. This is also true of the older plastic diesel engines.

There are methods to eliminate shorts. Sparky is always a problem when there is conductive materials in close proximity. Wheels touching the body of the engine, flow pipes and other lost wax castings hanging down from the body and touching the drive wheels or other part of the frame that produces sparky. Poor solder joints within the engine that allow the bear wires to come in contact with the frame or body. Wires that come loose from their intended solder points. Lack of insulating washers or insulating materials that causes a dead short. These all can be eliminated with patients and observation of where sparky presents himself. Turn off the lights and run the engine back and forth on the track and look for sparky. Check all of your electrical connections found in the engine and tender. Are the wheels on the tender all facing in the right direction? Are the pony and rear truck wheels facing in the right direction? Do either of these trucks come in contact with the cylinders or cab respectively?

The best method to resolve the pony and trailing trucks shorting problems is to replace the axles with carbon or composite axles. This eliminates cross feed shorts. If the axles are not available paint the cab and cylinders with a hard clear epoxy where the possibility of a short might occur. With the hanging down items from the body carefully bend the parts away from the frame and wheels. If the engine is painted and you break off any soldered part you are in a hurt. The re-soldering of these parts is going to be difficult with out damaging the paint. You now have to find an expert painter to touch up the solder point so it matches the original paint scheme.

There are special lubricants and greases that improve the running ability of the engine along with increasing the life of the locomotive. You must beware of the types of lubricants on the market. Always use the recommended kinds of lubricants suggested by the Nation Model Railroad Association or your local hobby shop and friends. There are some oils and lubricants that can damage your locomotive. Corrosive agents can attack the locomotive and its wiring plus attack plastics. So beware of what your are purchasing.

The brass engine is made to last for years but it must be taken care of. HO Model Trains as a whole must be taken care of and protected from damage. There are many delicate parts on these trains especially in the brass world. Always keep your brass locomotives in their original boxes. This is also true with the new plastic steam engines from China. All brass engines, freight and passenger cars should always be kept in their original boxes. For the plastic engines, freight and passenger cars you may store them in special boxes produce by Proto Power West A-Line. These boxes are exceptional for this purpose and saves a great deal of space.

In the brass engine boxes place bags of desiccant to cut down any moisture. In fact any of your engines whether brass or plastic should have desiccant bags in their respective boxes. Take care where you store your engines so the temperature remains ambient to a normal room in a home. Major temperature changes can cause problems with brass locomotives. In many cases a brass locomotive is like a good watch you don't miss handle it or expose it to severe conditions.

Make sure your run you engine periodically. This keeps the engine in good running order. Long periods of time in storage can cause problems particularly when it comes to the lubricants. Lubricants may be the best but nature still plays her hand and the lubricants can become sluggish and the oils may drain away from their intended area of need. Always check your engine before running it that there are lubricants in the needed places.

Joy Ball has been involved in the restoration and maintenance of a variety of Brass Model Locomotives. Through her years of expertise, Mrs. Ball has perfected the art of train restoration often spending countless hours preserving vintage Brass Locomotive to the running condition of even the newest Brass Model Replicas. It should be noted that the above blog was written by Joy’s husband Michael Ball. Receive her free newsletter at http://www.brasslocomotiveworks.com/